With their misty mountain temples and uber-modern cities, Koreans mix an abiding sense of history and tradition with a zeal to achieve global success in technology and other industries. (Remember when the American public sneered at Kias?) Rudy samples both the delights of cosmopolitan Seoul as well as the tranquility of temples tucked into lush mountains where monks invite guests to stay overnight and give evidence of the country's other name: The Land of the Morning Calm. And, yes, there's a healthy serving of Korean barbeque and kimchi.