Budapest, once Vienna's partner in ruling the Austro-Hungarian empire, feels like the capital of Eastern Europe. It's actually two cities--busy Pest and noble Buda--straddling the Danube, and laced together by mighty bridges. Capitalism has taken hold, with gusto, as shopping boulevards thrive, and stone Lenins and cast iron Stalins litter a theme park at the edge of town. Today, Gypsy orchestras feature smoking violins, venerable mineral baths are the rage, and 19th century coffeehouses enjoy a renaissance.