Belgium is a land of contrasts. From the powerhouse headquarters of the European Union and Europe's grandest square in big-city Brussels, Rick Steves goes quaint, with delicate lace; and takes back-lane bike rides in small-town Bruges. He checks into a medieval hospital, savors the exquisite art of Memling, and climbs a bell tower to get up-close and fortissimo at a carillon concert. Then, passionate chefs--creators of French fries and Europe's finest chocolate--give him a taste of their art.