Dublin's story is of feast and famine: from its 18th-century Golden Age to its 20th-century struggles for independence to its boomtime today. The town is explored, with its foreboding castle, patriotic jail, and Trinity College, with its illuminated Book of Kells--a bright light from the Dark Ages. At night, there's a party in Temple Bar, awash with Celtic music and frothy pints of Guinness. A sidetrip is taken to the prehistoric necropolis of Newgrange and the medieval monastery at Glendalough, tucked in the scenic Wicklow Mountains.