Munich's lively Marienplatz pulses with outdoor cafes, shoppers, street musicians, and happy tourists. At the famous Hofbrauhaus, Rudy Maxa samples Bavarian beer and kicks up his heels with Schuhplattler dancers clad in lederhosen. The next stop is the Residenz, the family palace built by the Wittlesbachs, who ruled Bavaria for more than 700 years. Just outside of town, a sobering visit to Dachau concentration camp gives a reminder of the dark side of history.