Milan symbolizes the powerhouse Italy of the 21st century--a European center for finance and fashion. Rudy Maxa explores Italy's most extravagantly decorated Gothic cathedral, looks at Leonardo da Vinci's famous Last Supper, and shops, shops, shops. A visit to the Milan Design Museum shows how, for the Milanese, everyday life is art. He takes a train north to serene Lake Como, where he ferry-hops among lakeside villages, explores elegant villas, and stops over at the historic Villa D'Este Hotel. A side trip to the ancient city of Bergamo, and an alpine festival in the Valtellina completes the journey. Tips include train travel and boat itineraries.