Rudy Maxa winds his way across this largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Once the hub of the ancient world, Sicily offers up a vibrant, sun-soaked brew of history, tradition, and intense cultural pride. At Palermo, a city bursting with its atmospheric past, he visits the lively market, and marvels at Monreale Cathedral, which shows off remnants of its Arab, Norman, and Byzantine past. The finest classical Greek temples outside of Greece stand near Segesta and Agrigento, while the Villa Romana del Casale houses the most extensive and unspoiled Roman mosaics surviving from the ancient world. Then, it's on to ancient Syracuse, once the rival of Athens for wealth and power. Finally, he climbs to the top of Mount Etna, for steaming craters and unearthly views. Tips include getting around the island, and when to visit.