Irish eyes are smiling when Rudy Maxa explores Dublin, Ireland's urban core. There's history around every corner, and Dublin delights with Trinity College, the Book of Kells, the famous Guinness Brewery, and the infamous Kilmainham jail, where Irish rebels spent their last days. He liberally samples pub life, while tapping toes to traditional music, and follows in the footsteps of famous Irish writers on a literary pub-crawl. Beyond Dublin, he finds inspiration in the hillsides of Glendalough, site of Ireland's revered monastery, and the Hill of Tara, home of the ancient Irish kings. A side trip to Northern Ireland's best folk park brings the Eire of yesteryear to life. Also: tips on visiting Dublin's literary sites are given.